I’ve always thought home was green, that it had a goal post at each end. I was neck deep in the water and I saw it coming at me, a huge swell. I was terrified to be honest; I could feel my bones shaking. As it heaved me up I heard people yelling out to me “ON YOUR BOARD..!! PADDLE..PADDLE..PADDLE”. I followed and the next thing I remember was sliding down the pipeline with a nirvanic curve on my lips. Everything changed after I caught my first wave. I never thought that I could have so much fun on something so damp. Now, I grab my board and run to the waves whenever I can. It’s so much fun, it’s enticing. I've a second home now, its blue and it has waves at each end.