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Story: One Bus India:
Story: One Bus India:
As Srinagar-Jammu highway was closed, almost no bus was running from Baltal or Pahalgaon to Srinagar and so after Amarnath darshan, fear of missing our train from Jammu on July 13 was natural for such delay . We are the two among us, 'myself Subhas' my 'Naveen Mama' by speak , one of my team of seven who traveled Amarnath alone from Baltal Basecamp as via Pahalgaon without getting a slot and we were 6 from Pahalgaon. But on the 10 th when I completed Amarnath darshan and looking for the bag, I met uncle ( Nabin mama) unexpectedly after parting ways on the 6th from Jammu. Then I came down to Baltal Basecamp with uncle, the rest of my group went down to Pahalgaon on 10th July by helicoptor .
There was one more with uncle, Ravi Vaipo ( nephew , as Nabin mama was called Kaku/ uncle ) met on the way introduced to him by uncle on the morning of the 11th - a devoted boy from Kolkata, met from the bus at Bhagwatinagar camp, shared same tent with uncle at Baltal. He will go again to Vaishnadevi. He is an affable boy.
Uncle is the oldest boy of 60 years. Ravi is younger than me, not yet married. I also spent one night together, I realized in one day that boy is truely chummy .
However, on the afternoon of 11th, I went to the bus stand to see the situation on the ground with Rabi and uncle .It was heard that the private bus may leave tomorrow. After waiting for some time, I saw that some lines were formed, but it was so crowded and pushed that the sale of tickets were stopped. Again after some time the line was formed with the help of dedicated J& K police, we three stood in a line. The line no longer moves. Bump was there . When I saw that the line was quiet and Ravi and I had reached a bit ahead, I asked Mama to drop the line and focus on the phone. Finally three tickets were collected. I returned to the tent after seeing where the bus would leave from.
Leave at four hr in the morning. We hurriedly had dinner from the Langar , packed my bags in the tent, paid money to the owner, Gul Mohammad uncle, and went to bed. It will be around 9:30 p.m., said Mike, the convoy bus will leave at 2:30 a.m.; Passengers who complete the journey on 10th, 11th can avail . But our private bus ticket was done so we forgot that 'our life is more valuable than money' . Besides , catching the bus at 2.30 in the morning, it would not be good to sleep, I had come cave by horse but uncle and Ravi had walked sixteen plus sixteen thirty two km in a day. So the leg pain was still there. So the bus in that 4 o clock is correct.
As usual before four o'clock we had tea biscuits at Langar and walked 500/600m to reach the bus and found the bus drivers sleeping in the closed bus. When we saw 4 o'clock, we woke up driver and put our bags on the seats. It's past 5, the bus doesn't leave.So once again we had tea and sat in the back seats of our number. By that time, the rest of the seats were filled. Around 6 o'clock, I saw someone sitting in front of my uncle's feet, I asked -seat number? In Hindi comes the reply that ticket is with the other . A lady sitting in the back seat heard that and said, "Would you like to change seats with me?" The man sitting below did not answer.
After that two more people filled the corridor, I understood , unreserved passengers. There was some commotion, the lady sitting in the back seat was also protesting. She was demanding to start the bus immediately. Finally the bus left at 6.30.
I jokingly said, do not change the seat, amma ji ? She said - god saved my seat.
I see my uncle taking photos of the sceneries from the bus with the helf of Ravi whose seat is by the window. On the seat between Ravi and uncle I am. Some are swaying, some are sleeping, some are talking, the man near the feet is leaning on uncle's feet, I was asking him to move because of discomfort to uncle but pushing and swaying, no scope to move also . Later, Mama told- Subhash lets go , remember India too gave shelter to Bangladeshi refugees.
Bus was moving slow, hilly roads, jam, Ravi is sometimes raising temper by responding to hilly policemen on the road. The big bags of everyone's are in the bottom dickey of bus.Time is spent eating chocolate etc in a pouch tied around uncle's waist and drinking water judiciously . At one place there was a little stop at the petrol pump, but as there was no advance notice of how long it would be and it took a long time to get down from the back seat, so I quickly bought some biscuit water and sat down. On the right side of uncle sat a Telugu man and on his right side sat the lady from Delhi. And on the left is me and Ravi.
There was an Oriya, Rajasthani etc in the two seats in front of us. Stories, rumours, arguments and debates are going on.There are many stories of temples, chaos , charisma etc. in different parts of India. Not getting uncle's support and when Lady from Delhi came to know that uncle had gone to Amarnath and returned without seeing ,then she got angry and said - Aap toh pura papi admi hai. Apse to baat bhi nahi karna chahiye.I was surprised to see uncle's reaction - but from what I have seen or known you, I think you are a very good and smart lady.
Lady turned around and threw the question - why?
Uncle - You said you were traveling alone, I saw you protesting about many things, this time clearly told me that you dislike me.
Lady - But if you don't want Amarnat ji darshan why you went there ?
I then said - you don't know him , he went to enjoy the natural beauty, to trek and spread some message about mountains. With that I showed the photo of slogan for mountain conservation appeal on the back of my uncle's tracksuit with the beautiful snow capped mountains in the background as I took the snap while descending together. Both the lady and the Telugu gentleman were impressed by the picture. The passengers in front of us were happy to see them and were surprised to see such beautiful scenery on the road which they had not noticed due to the difficulty of the high and inaccessible route and the attraction of Amarnath. Do you have more photos. I told my uncle to show in his mobile which I seen earlier .Two people like it and took it through 'Share It'. They tell uncle - you went mainly to photography? Mama replied -mainly to trek, besides I went to meet some beautiful people like you.
The day turns into the afternoon, all are tired and hungry, but the two - four people from Rajasthan have the train from Jammu Tawi at 9 pm. They might miss the train, so the bickering started, like a Parliament uproar. That Delhi Wali also strongly expressed her opinion in favor of stopping the bus saying - Hey Tumlogo ke Liye Bhukha Rahega Ka. But thinking about them, it was decided by voice vote that the bus will not stop.But due to jam bus was stopping frequently , only we can't get down. Distressing is there is no way to move in the bus. Mama is humming and singing songs quietly because he is sitting in the middle seat and can't see the sceneries outside . But after hearing low voice , the lady said - Zara humlogo ko bhi shunaye. Listening to Bhupen Hazarika's song 'Dil Hum Hum Kare', by mama their liking was expressed through clapping and some in loud voices. Then the lady also sang a bhajan. The other two also sang something in their own languages. This is how time passes.
But the bus did not progress more till evening. Then there was shouting once again, some say stop, some say let's go, to driver abusing. Mama tried to explain, what's the driver's fault, we didn't stop the driver, besides if not bothering the driver, an accident could happen. At night, the driver may fall asleep. So let him drive. What happens if you don't eat a day! But now it is not possible for them to get train so no problem to break for a while to avail for natures call. We from behind seats can't stand or move for the passengers sitting below. In the meantime, the lady,posing as 'Bharatmata',rushing towards driver any how and started threatening saying that she would call the police and file an FIR, etc.
As a result, the bus stopped in a large field, where there were many Langars, toilet sets. Mama said , here on the way from Bhagwati Nagar camp by bus I ate good tiffin on 6th, bought apricots. The name of the place Ramban. .But now it is 9 o clock in the night, dinner ends in the evening in the mountain region. So we ate some of the left over rice and mungdal with nectar taste then from couple of langars. However, it felt quite refreshing to be able to go to the washroom before eating and to walk around a bit. I saw the refugee who was sitting in front of my uncle's feet now seated on uncles seat and mama standing .
Some passengers including our Ravi and that lady had plans to go to Vaishnadevi but confused regarding getting down at Dumel chawk or Jammu because of the bus late. The lady had no phone or charge.Used uncle's mobile and talked to her daughter and gave an update about going vaishno devi. She started telling stories about family, about her role in the family and lastly began to shway like other travelers. Meanwhile, the refugee brother forgot seated on the other's seat. Suddenly there was a jolt, probably a bump, I opened my eyes and saw that my uncle had stumbled towards him. Realizing this, he left uncle's seat and leaned on uncle's feet as usual and started snoring. Seeing the plight of people, uncle has been tolerating so much, he even let him sit once earlier . I have never seen anyone like this except my uncle. But seeing this sympathy, everyone in the seat near us understood that 'humanity has nothing to do with devotion to god ', which was understood from the changed speech of them, especially the lady. Dumel arrived around four in the morning. I also went down to check the luggages . Uncle also got down, driver also got down. Uncle told the driver- you may go tough for such continuous drive!. He surprised us more and said - Nahi hamlog do do din gari chalata hai.
Some of them exchanged greetings and took out the luggage from Dicky and left for Vaishnadevi's bus in which our Ravi was there who was traveling with uncle for a few days so expression was slight painful during thisseparation though unavoidable .
The remaining 30 km with a few other were spent in the excitement of the last leg to reach Jammu, gossiping and watching the dark form of the hilly night we reached bus stand at around 6 am ie 12 hours journey in 24 hours.
I and uncle were two Bengali fellow passengers have the ticket of the same train at evening . Others in different trains .
But soon after descent from bus India seemed to have disintegrated into different states.
**KRN** 13.07.2023 . JAT
Writco: 31.12.2023 (Original Bengali)
As Srinagar-Jammu highway was closed, almost no bus was running from Baltal or Pahalgaon to Srinagar and so after Amarnath darshan, fear of missing our train from Jammu on July 13 was natural for such delay . We are the two among us, 'myself Subhas' my 'Naveen Mama' by speak , one of my team of seven who traveled Amarnath alone from Baltal Basecamp as via Pahalgaon without getting a slot and we were 6 from Pahalgaon. But on the 10 th when I completed Amarnath darshan and looking for the bag, I met uncle ( Nabin mama) unexpectedly after parting ways on the 6th from Jammu. Then I came down to Baltal Basecamp with uncle, the rest of my group went down to Pahalgaon on 10th July by helicoptor .
There was one more with uncle, Ravi Vaipo ( nephew , as Nabin mama was called Kaku/ uncle ) met on the way introduced to him by uncle on the morning of the 11th - a devoted boy from Kolkata, met from the bus at Bhagwatinagar camp, shared same tent with uncle at Baltal. He will go again to Vaishnadevi. He is an affable boy.
Uncle is the oldest boy of 60 years. Ravi is younger than me, not yet married. I also spent one night together, I realized in one day that boy is truely chummy .
However, on the afternoon of 11th, I went to the bus stand to see the situation on the ground with Rabi and uncle .It was heard that the private bus may leave tomorrow. After waiting for some time, I saw that some lines were formed, but it was so crowded and pushed that the sale of tickets were stopped. Again after some time the line was formed with the help of dedicated J& K police, we three stood in a line. The line no longer moves. Bump was there . When I saw that the line was quiet and Ravi and I had reached a bit ahead, I asked Mama to drop the line and focus on the phone. Finally three tickets were collected. I returned to the tent after seeing where the bus would leave from.
Leave at four hr in the morning. We hurriedly had dinner from the Langar , packed my bags in the tent, paid money to the owner, Gul Mohammad uncle, and went to bed. It will be around 9:30 p.m., said Mike, the convoy bus will leave at 2:30 a.m.; Passengers who complete the journey on 10th, 11th can avail . But our private bus ticket was done so we forgot that 'our life is more valuable than money' . Besides , catching the bus at 2.30 in the morning, it would not be good to sleep, I had come cave by horse but uncle and Ravi had walked sixteen plus sixteen thirty two km in a day. So the leg pain was still there. So the bus in that 4 o clock is correct.
As usual before four o'clock we had tea biscuits at Langar and walked 500/600m to reach the bus and found the bus drivers sleeping in the closed bus. When we saw 4 o'clock, we woke up driver and put our bags on the seats. It's past 5, the bus doesn't leave.So once again we had tea and sat in the back seats of our number. By that time, the rest of the seats were filled. Around 6 o'clock, I saw someone sitting in front of my uncle's feet, I asked -seat number? In Hindi comes the reply that ticket is with the other . A lady sitting in the back seat heard that and said, "Would you like to change seats with me?" The man sitting below did not answer.
After that two more people filled the corridor, I understood , unreserved passengers. There was some commotion, the lady sitting in the back seat was also protesting. She was demanding to start the bus immediately. Finally the bus left at 6.30.
I jokingly said, do not change the seat, amma ji ? She said - god saved my seat.
I see my uncle taking photos of the sceneries from the bus with the helf of Ravi whose seat is by the window. On the seat between Ravi and uncle I am. Some are swaying, some are sleeping, some are talking, the man near the feet is leaning on uncle's feet, I was asking him to move because of discomfort to uncle but pushing and swaying, no scope to move also . Later, Mama told- Subhash lets go , remember India too gave shelter to Bangladeshi refugees.
Bus was moving slow, hilly roads, jam, Ravi is sometimes raising temper by responding to hilly policemen on the road. The big bags of everyone's are in the bottom dickey of bus.Time is spent eating chocolate etc in a pouch tied around uncle's waist and drinking water judiciously . At one place there was a little stop at the petrol pump, but as there was no advance notice of how long it would be and it took a long time to get down from the back seat, so I quickly bought some biscuit water and sat down. On the right side of uncle sat a Telugu man and on his right side sat the lady from Delhi. And on the left is me and Ravi.
There was an Oriya, Rajasthani etc in the two seats in front of us. Stories, rumours, arguments and debates are going on.There are many stories of temples, chaos , charisma etc. in different parts of India. Not getting uncle's support and when Lady from Delhi came to know that uncle had gone to Amarnath and returned without seeing ,then she got angry and said - Aap toh pura papi admi hai. Apse to baat bhi nahi karna chahiye.I was surprised to see uncle's reaction - but from what I have seen or known you, I think you are a very good and smart lady.
Lady turned around and threw the question - why?
Uncle - You said you were traveling alone, I saw you protesting about many things, this time clearly told me that you dislike me.
Lady - But if you don't want Amarnat ji darshan why you went there ?
I then said - you don't know him , he went to enjoy the natural beauty, to trek and spread some message about mountains. With that I showed the photo of slogan for mountain conservation appeal on the back of my uncle's tracksuit with the beautiful snow capped mountains in the background as I took the snap while descending together. Both the lady and the Telugu gentleman were impressed by the picture. The passengers in front of us were happy to see them and were surprised to see such beautiful scenery on the road which they had not noticed due to the difficulty of the high and inaccessible route and the attraction of Amarnath. Do you have more photos. I told my uncle to show in his mobile which I seen earlier .Two people like it and took it through 'Share It'. They tell uncle - you went mainly to photography? Mama replied -mainly to trek, besides I went to meet some beautiful people like you.
The day turns into the afternoon, all are tired and hungry, but the two - four people from Rajasthan have the train from Jammu Tawi at 9 pm. They might miss the train, so the bickering started, like a Parliament uproar. That Delhi Wali also strongly expressed her opinion in favor of stopping the bus saying - Hey Tumlogo ke Liye Bhukha Rahega Ka. But thinking about them, it was decided by voice vote that the bus will not stop.But due to jam bus was stopping frequently , only we can't get down. Distressing is there is no way to move in the bus. Mama is humming and singing songs quietly because he is sitting in the middle seat and can't see the sceneries outside . But after hearing low voice , the lady said - Zara humlogo ko bhi shunaye. Listening to Bhupen Hazarika's song 'Dil Hum Hum Kare', by mama their liking was expressed through clapping and some in loud voices. Then the lady also sang a bhajan. The other two also sang something in their own languages. This is how time passes.
But the bus did not progress more till evening. Then there was shouting once again, some say stop, some say let's go, to driver abusing. Mama tried to explain, what's the driver's fault, we didn't stop the driver, besides if not bothering the driver, an accident could happen. At night, the driver may fall asleep. So let him drive. What happens if you don't eat a day! But now it is not possible for them to get train so no problem to break for a while to avail for natures call. We from behind seats can't stand or move for the passengers sitting below. In the meantime, the lady,posing as 'Bharatmata',rushing towards driver any how and started threatening saying that she would call the police and file an FIR, etc.
As a result, the bus stopped in a large field, where there were many Langars, toilet sets. Mama said , here on the way from Bhagwati Nagar camp by bus I ate good tiffin on 6th, bought apricots. The name of the place Ramban. .But now it is 9 o clock in the night, dinner ends in the evening in the mountain region. So we ate some of the left over rice and mungdal with nectar taste then from couple of langars. However, it felt quite refreshing to be able to go to the washroom before eating and to walk around a bit. I saw the refugee who was sitting in front of my uncle's feet now seated on uncles seat and mama standing .
Some passengers including our Ravi and that lady had plans to go to Vaishnadevi but confused regarding getting down at Dumel chawk or Jammu because of the bus late. The lady had no phone or charge.Used uncle's mobile and talked to her daughter and gave an update about going vaishno devi. She started telling stories about family, about her role in the family and lastly began to shway like other travelers. Meanwhile, the refugee brother forgot seated on the other's seat. Suddenly there was a jolt, probably a bump, I opened my eyes and saw that my uncle had stumbled towards him. Realizing this, he left uncle's seat and leaned on uncle's feet as usual and started snoring. Seeing the plight of people, uncle has been tolerating so much, he even let him sit once earlier . I have never seen anyone like this except my uncle. But seeing this sympathy, everyone in the seat near us understood that 'humanity has nothing to do with devotion to god ', which was understood from the changed speech of them, especially the lady. Dumel arrived around four in the morning. I also went down to check the luggages . Uncle also got down, driver also got down. Uncle told the driver- you may go tough for such continuous drive!. He surprised us more and said - Nahi hamlog do do din gari chalata hai.
Some of them exchanged greetings and took out the luggage from Dicky and left for Vaishnadevi's bus in which our Ravi was there who was traveling with uncle for a few days so expression was slight painful during thisseparation though unavoidable .
The remaining 30 km with a few other were spent in the excitement of the last leg to reach Jammu, gossiping and watching the dark form of the hilly night we reached bus stand at around 6 am ie 12 hours journey in 24 hours.
I and uncle were two Bengali fellow passengers have the ticket of the same train at evening . Others in different trains .
But soon after descent from bus India seemed to have disintegrated into different states.
**KRN** 13.07.2023 . JAT
Writco: 31.12.2023 (Original Bengali)
